Calabria at the Hilton in Tel Aviv
By Gloria Deutsch
The flavorful cuisine of
southern Italy is highlighted this month at the hotel’s King Solomon restaurant.
Calabria is the southernmost part of Italy – the toe – and
its cuisine is less well known than that of Rome and the north. To introduce
Israelis to the gastronomy of the region, the Tel Aviv Hilton is holding a Calabrian
month during November in its prestigious King Solomon restaurant.
Under the auspices of the Academia Italiana della Cucina,
and with the blessing of the new ambassador from Italy, Francesco Maria Talo,
the hotel imported chef Luigi Quintieri to create a Calabrian feast and invited
food writers from Israel to sample the offerings.
One of the aims of the promotion is to increase tourism to
the region, said Motti Verses, the genial public relations guru of the Tel Aviv
Hilton, as he introduced several speakers from the Italian Embassy in Tel Aviv
before the lunch.
“You are going to be served a six-course meal,” he
announced, “so take your time and enjoy every minute.”
The first of the six courses was risotto with locus. This
consisted of a mound of long-grain rice in a creamy sauce, decorated with red
pepper and green herbs. It was tasty with overtones of garlic and saffron; and
the pieces of fish, when one could find one, were very fresh and flavorsome. As
this was the first of six courses, it was more than enough.
Next up was cavatello crotonese, which was, we were told,
pasta served with red tuna, olives, capers and tomatoes. The sauce was
delicious, but it was actually served on gnocchi, which to my mind are just
lumps of dough, so the dish was somewhat of a disappointment for me.
By the time the third course arrived, it had become clear
that fish was going to be the predominant item in the meal. This course
consisted of a piece of denis (sea bream) lightly sautéed and served with a
puree of potatoes and olive cream. It was aesthetically presented with a tomato
rose held in place with a bamboo stick and tasted wonderful.
However, by the time the soup course was served, one had had
quite enough of fish. But this turned out to be fish soup – pieces of locus
floating in a thin spicy sauce with black olives and red pepper for garnish.
Needless to say, the fish was very fresh and tasty, but the dish was not
particularly aesthetic.
After four fish-based dishes, one was more than ready for
the dessert. In fact, there were two, and both were very good. The first was a
pastry filled with a delicious orange cream. We were told that this particular
dough is a Calabrian speciality that is used to prepare delicacies for festive
occasions. While the fat content is higher than usual for shortcrust, it was a
fairly routine pie crust. The chef had managed to make the dough and the orange
cream taste pretty good, even within the constraints of kashrut and keeping
everything parve.
Finally there was a round nut-encrusted chocolate dessert,
which we were told contained eggplant, though you could never guess from the
taste. It was excellent, not cloyingly sweet but just sweet enough to satisfy
the need for something “dolce” after the meal.
Calabria in Tel Aviv will run throughout November in the
King Solomon restaurant. The regular menu, presided over by veteran executive
chef Avigdor Brueh, will also be available.
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